Le presumably, or bodegas, are typical Barcelona aperitif bars. Passed into the background during the 90s, in recent years they have experienced a real rediscovery: small rooms with a characteristic decoration where it is enhanced homemade food and drink.
You can taste a Catalan vermouth accompanied by potatoes with brava sauce or alioli; albondigas, typical meatballs, or anchoas, the typical anchovies in oil. Often bodegas do not have a proper cuisine, so most of the tapas is made up of enlatados, or preserves, generally very popular in Barcelona.
We have tried many vermuterías over time, and we have compiled a list based on our very personal preferences: good vermouth, good tapas, and cheap. And if you liked vermouth or some wine, you can always take some home with you: traditionally the bodegas offered the possibility of direct selling wine or vermouth in bulk, and there are many to keep this practice alive. If you want to know more about the various types of bars or clubs in Barcelona, or would like to know what a pintxos bar or a delicatessen, read this article.
The Vermouth shop of Tano
If there is any bar where you can get a proper vermouth in the Gràcia neighborhood, this is definitely the place Vermouth shop of Tano. This small neighborhood bodega has a very ancient history: it opened in 1927 selling wine and oil, and it seems that over the years it has never had a real name, so when the shop changed hands to the current manager, for the precisely Tano (from Cayetano), the locals began to call the bar by his name. After 25 years, the Tano is still there, and continues to run the bar with his wife.
The venue alone is worth a visit: the bar full of preserves or tapas ready to serve, the barrels of aged wine on the walls, marble tables in pure 50's style, every detail seems to take you back in time. The tapas are mainly composed of preserves (the so-called enlatados), together with others of the day, all accompanied by vermouth or other spirits. If you like vermouth, try the peruchi, the house one, for € 1,60.
Where and when
La vermutería del Tano is open from Monday to Friday, from 9am to 00pm, and on Saturdays and Sundays from 21pm to 00pm. The address is Carrer Joan Blanques, 12, in the Gràcia district, the closest metro station is Joanic (yellow line 00). It can be interesting if you decide to walk down from Parc Güell to the Sagrada Familia, and want to stop for an aperitif.
Great Winery Saltó
Of all the bodegas visited in Barcelona, the Gran Bodega Saltó certainly is one of the strangest: born almost a century ago, in the early 2000s it was in a state of neglect when, in 2002, the current owners brought the place back to life. Taking as a common thread the history of the Paral·lel area, one of the main centers of shows and theaters in Barcelona, they decided to decorate the venue with elements taken from the world of theaters and the circus, to obtain the result visible today.
The mix between the very typical atmosphere of a Catalan bodega and circus decorations would be enough to make this vermutería worth a visit, but beyond that, the Saltó offers a good variety of wines and vermouths present, in addition to frequent concerts organized internally, making it one of the most interesting places to stay in the wee hours in Poble Sec. Compared to other bodegas it is more oriented towards nightlife, but it is worth a visit. Two things to add, there is no table service, and alcohol costs more after midnight.
Where and when
The Gran Bodega Saltó is located at Carrer Blesa, 36, in the Poble Sec district. The nearest metro station is Paral·lel (lines 2 and 3). If you leave the maritime museum you could get there by walking for about ten minutes. The venue opens Monday to Thursday from 19pm to 00am, Friday from 02pm to 00am, Saturdays from 19pm to 00am, and Sunday from 3pm to midnight.
Quimet and Quimet
Another historic place in Gràcia, la Quimet and Quimet opened its doors in 1954, and has continued to serve wines and vermouth ever since, accompanied by a varied quantity of tapas: patatas bravas, jamón and other sausages, and a large quantity of fish preserves to taste, all at very affordable prices: the house vermouth, from the Reus area (one of the best for vermouth) costs € 1,30 per cup, and as tradition dictates, it is possible to buy wine and vermouth in bulk, or as they say in Catalan, al granel, to continue your evening after the bar closes. Note the original decorations, and thevery homey environment that you breathe in this bodega, it will not be difficult to feel at home.
Where and when
Quimet i Quimet is located in the district of Gràcia, at number 23 of Carrer de Vic. The closest underground stations are those of Fontana (line 3) and Diagonal (line 5). The opening hours are from Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 23:30, and on Saturdays and Sundays from 12:00 to 23:30.
Bodega E. Marin
Another authentic place, when you pass the doors of the E. Marin bodega you will really feel like stepping back in time. Opened a century ago, in 1916, as a shop for ultramarinos, i.e. colonial products, it has been lovingly run for over 20 years by Antonio and Tere. The local is a veritable museum of vermouth and wine: just look at the shelves filled up to the roof with bottles and barrels, with different products difficult to find elsewhere, making it a point of reference for all lovers of good drinking. Also the tapas deserve to be tasted, one tastier than the other: to try the croquettes, unsurpassed.
The place is small and fills up easily, so it is difficult to find a seat, however it is possible to sit outside to sip your vermouth and have a chat. THE prices are very reasonable, the house vermouth costs € 1,50.
Where and when
Located in Carrer Milà i Fontanals, 72, the bodega E. Marin is located in the Gràcia district: the closest metro stops are those of Joanic and Verdaguer, both on the yellow line 4. The bodega opens from Monday to Friday, from 7:00 to 15:00 and from 17:00 to 21:30, and on Saturdays only in the morning. Closed on Sunday.
Unlike the other bodegas described above, the Senyor Vermut was opened quite recently, in 2013. What it lacks in history it makes up for in passion: the manager, Jordi, is a lover of Vermouth, and his place makes it breathe in every detail: the variety of vermouth on offer is impressive, and the owner wields an encyclopedic knowledge on the subject, which is noticeable in the house's exquisite vermouth.
The variety of tapas on offer is also excellent: the restaurant has its own kitchen and offers on its menu a series of delicacies to taste, to try the patatas bravas of the house, or if you prefer a fried fish. The prices are reasonable, € 1,80 for a vermouth, and € 10,50 for the menu del día for lunch.
Where and when
Senyor Vermut is located in Carrer de Provença, 85, in the left Eixample; to get there by metro, get off at Hospital Clinic or Entença stops, on line 5. The hours are from 11:00 to 22:00, Tuesday to Saturday, and from 11:00 to 16:00 on Sundays. It does not open on Mondays.
Have you been to any of these places? Did you like it? Did you find others to propose? Write us your opinions in the comments!